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SMD code TU2 in SOT-323

Marking codes are not standardised, and the same code is reused by unrelated makers for unrelated parts. Below is every part in our tables printed with it, and any printed with a code that is easy to misread as it, from the manufacturers' own marking tables and published code lists.

2 parts in SOT-323 are printed TU2

Not sure which one you have?

Answer up to 4 quick questions and these 2 parts are ranked, with a meter test that settles it. It works on a dead part too.

Digital transistor (PNP, resistors built in), all SOT-323, 3 pins. What differs:

  • CHDTA114TUGPSOT-323ChenmkoChenmko
    What it is
    Digital transistor (PNP, resistors built in)
    Maker
    Chenmko
    Package
    SOT-323
    Pins
    3
    Details
    PNP Digital Silicon Transistor, 50 V, 100 mA
    Source
    Manufacturer datasheet

    Is it dead? The meter test is below: Digital transistor.

  • CHDTA114TUPTSOT-323Chenmko EnterpriseChenmko Enterprise
    What it is
    Digital transistor (PNP, resistors built in)
    Maker
    Chenmko Enterprise
    Package
    SOT-323
    Pins
    3
    Details
    PNP transistor: Sw, 50V, 100mA, 250MHz, R1=10k
    Source
    Published code list

    Is it dead? The meter test is below: Digital transistor.

Is it dead? One meter test per kind

Parts of the same kind are tested the same way, so each test is here once. Each part above points to its own.

Digital transistor

Ohms range, part lifted. The datasheet gives the built-in resistors: R1 in series with the base, R2 from base to emitter.

Working, it reads

Base to emitter reads about R1 plus R2 either way round, about 20 kΩ on a 10 k and 10 k part, give or take their wide tolerance. Collector to emitter reads open. A part with no R2 reads a junction behind R1 one way instead.

Dead, it reads

  • Collector to emitter the same both ways, near 0 Ω with a continuous beep: shorted.
  • From the base, open or far above R1 plus R2: R1 has failed. Static damage shows here most often.
  • Base to emitter near 0 Ω: failed short.
On the board
this is a first look only: the meter reads every path between those pins, and a short can be a neighbour. Lift one leg before you condemn it.
Compare:
The readings depend on the resistor values, so an identical part elsewhere on the board is the surest reference. Measure it the same way.
Watch for:
On the diode range a good part with 10 kΩ resistors reads open on every pair, so a good part looks dead there. Use the ohms range.

A dead part still carries its marking. A short or an open says it has failed, not that it is a different part.

Did you find your part?

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